Can you say big?  While not as large as the Redwoods in California, these hardwoods are most impressive at 20 feet around and some of the largest trees you can see in the Eastern United States. 

On our last visit we pulled into the paved parking area right around noon and were greeted by a member of the Forest Service staff under the informational pavilion.  The trail is well marked with maps readily available, so no worries if a ranger isn’t present.

The full trail is 2 miles long and made up of two primary loops that form an elongated figure eight. The lower loop is about 1.25 miles with the upper loop clocking in at .75 of a mile.  While most people head over the bridge to the left to start the trail, we prefer heading out on the right.  This is an easier incline route saving the steepest part for downhill on the way back!

The two loops intersect at the middle where you can find the official Memorial plaque to Joyce Kilmer.  He was a soldier and a poet (yes, Joyce is a dude) that was killed in action during WWI.  He wrote that poem about Trees that starts out ….. “I think that I shall never see a poem lovely as a tree…..”

We finished the full two miles in an hour with photo op stops along the way.  It took about 35 minutes on the lower loop and 25 minutes on the upper loop.  We were walking at a pretty good clip so allow somewhere between 1- ½ hours.

You can hike all or a portion of the trail but if you want to see the big grand daddy trees, be sure to complete the upper loop called Poplar Cove.  Most of the larger trees can be viewed on this upper loop so keep going once you get to the Memorial plaque.

The trail is packed dirt with quite a few tree roots and rocks to step over. A sturdy and comfortable pair of hiking type shoes is recommended.  The views of the towering trees and lush forest undergrowth are set against the sound of babbling Lake Santeetlah Creek making for a memorable experience.

Getting There…….

There are two routes to reach the entrance of the Joyce Kilmer Memorial Forest.  Both routes are well marked, on paved two lane roads, and easily reached by motorcycle or car.  What route you take really depends on what end of Lake Santeetlah you start from. 

From Robbinsville: Head North on US 129 for about a mile then turn left onto NC 143 West.  Travel about 12 miles and take a right turn on Joyce Kilmer Road SR 1134.  Go about two miles and turn left into the forest entrance.

From The Dragon on US129:  Heading South on US 129 turn right onto SR 1134/1147 then take the next right onto Joyce Kilmer Road SR 1134 following the signs to Joyce Kilmer Memorial Forest.  The road meanders around the west end of Lake Santeetlah for about 6 miles.  When you reach the stop sign just go straight into the entrance of the forest.  If you turn left at the stop sign (instead of going straight) and travel 2 miles you will reach NC 143 W at the start of the Cherohala Skyway.  This is a great short cut when riding back from the Dragon that takes about 8 miles total from US 129 to NC 143 and saves mileage if you don’t want to head back into Robbinsville. 

So, you are making your first of what is sure to become many trips to the Dragon. You are probably excited and perhaps a little bit nervous. That is understandable – 318 curves in 11 miles! Ask any “Dragon Slayer” and they will tell you that there is nothing like the first time. 

There is also no reason any average rider cannot enjoy a memorable ride through the mountains and avoid any addition to the tree of shame. Just follow these 10 basic tips… 

Before you hit the road….. 

Tip #1 – The Dragon is not for first time riders. Unless you have at least 2,500-4,500 miles on your bike you might want to enjoy some of the other local roads this visit (and there are plenty of them). 

Tip #2 - Make sure your bike is ready. Make sure your tires are inflated to specs and you have a full tank of gas. Before heading up here, whether you are riding the Dragon or not, have your bike serviced. If any tires or brakes are “getting close” now is the time to change them.

Tip #3 – Make sure you are ready. People are on the Dragon at all hours of the day (including cars). Try to plan your day accordingly. If you can help it, make sure you are fresh and ready to ride. If you have been riding all day to get there, take a break, then tackle the Dragon. The Dragon will require you to have all your senses and attention.

Tip #4 – Put on the Armor! Even your best Dragon Slayers have the right gear. Boots, Jeans, Helmet, and Gloves are usually the minimum. Many rocket riders have full racing gear. I don’t care what kind of bike you ride, the pavement doesn’t know the difference or care if you have a $3,000 import or a $75,000 racing bike – it hurts either way!

Riding the Dragon…..

Tip #5 – Go your own pace. Some people ride fast, some ride at a slower speed. Stick to your own comfort zone. Don’t push yourself to keep up with friends or other riders. You will all end up in the same spot –better with great stories than road rash because you were riding outside your abilities.

Tip #6 -Turn your head. Ok, you probably remember your original bike instructor telling you this when you got your motorcycle license but it is certainly true around here. Your bike goes where you look. You don’t have the time to site see on the Dragon and you don’t have the luxury (unless you are on the back) to stare at your current spot in a corner. Turn your head and look where you want to go. Sometimes you may be looking well over your right or left shoulder – that is when you will know you are doing it right.

Tip #7 – Slow down BEFORE the corner. Hey, more basic stuff, but you won’t have a lot of time to slow down in a corner (remember, if you apply breaks your bike goes upright – kind of hard to keep turning huh?). Slow down into the corner and accelerate out.

TIP #8 – Stay on Your Own Side.  For God’s sake, stay on your own side of the yellow line (and watch for others that don’t!)

TIP #9 – Practice Safe Passing.  While no passing is safe passing, at some point someone will want to pass you. This is not a reflection on you and we are all out there for different experiences. Bottom line – let them pass! Accidents happen because someone thinks they own the road or are “going fast enough” and won’t let someone by. Even the best Dragon Slayers will let a bike pass. The best way to let someone pass is to, after a corner, move over to the right side of a lane and slow down. Waive them by. I don’t recommend pulling off the road. Other than the “lookout” or the “store” most of the pullouts are gravel and can create more headache than they are worth.

If you want to pass someone make sure they see you. I like to wait for the wave (see above). Never, never, never pass on the right or go between bikes. I know this seems like obvious stuff but I never said there were not stupid people on the Dragon as well.

Tip #10- Lastly, say “Cheese.” There are plenty of people shooting photos on the gap. You can log on to their websites and purchase a photo of yourself slaying the Dragon. You will see them on the side of the road when you come around a corner. The best photos are usually the ones where you look at the road, not the photographer – but you decide. 

That’s it. Follow the 10 tips above and you will not only have a great experience, you will also join a long list of people that are hooked on not only some of the best riding around but also the ability to show a slight smile when someone asks if you have ever ridden the Dragon at Deals Gap.  

After years of riding the Smoky Mountains around Deals Gap one of our favorite rides is still the Dragon – Skyway Loop.  Start the morning riding the Dragon at Deals Gap complete with 318 turns in 11 miles.  Drop down into the valley and loop around to Tellico plains for a stop at the beautiful Bald River Falls.  Then head back over the Cherohala Skyway for breathtaking views and mile high elevations ending back at Robbinsville NC. 

You can make this a half day to a full day trip depending on how many stops you make along the way.  Here we share the details of the route along with our favorite stops along the way! 

Start:  Robbinsville, NC

Head North on US Hwy 129 (aka Topoco Rd.) driving approximately 18 miles to reach the Dragon at Deals Gap.  Along the way you will see beautiful Lake Santeetlah on your left and the foothills of the Smokey Mountains to your right. As you pass Tapoco Lodge on your left you will cross over a bridge with Cheoah Dam, filmed in the movie The Fugitive, on the right.  Making a sharp right turn you start climbing up the “Tail of the Dragon”.  It is a taste of the many turns to come. 

Deals Gap Motorcycle Resort (17548 Tapoco Rd. NC 28771)

When Hwy 28 intersects with US 129 you have reached Deals Gap Motorcycle Resort. Sitting almost on the NC/TN border, this is a “must see” stop and considered by many the start of the Dragon.  You can browse for souvenirs, grab refreshments, top off the gas tank, and generally shoot the breeze with fellow dragon slayers.  Don’t forget to check out the Tree of Shame where broken parts remind us the Dragon can bite. Inside the Dragons Den Grill you can enjoy a meal or have your signed group T-shirt displayed on the ceiling. 

Across the street are souvenirs from Tail of the Dragon at Deals Gap and photos by Killboy.

Riding the Dragon

Now it is time to get your game face on and slay the Dragon!  Voted the number one motorcycle road in America, this piece of asphalt appeals to motor enthusiasts on both two wheels and four wheels. From this direction you will be heading mostly downhill but you can always reverse the route and ride it uphill! Be sure to read our 10 Tips for Slaying the Dragon and riding safe!  About 8.8 miles from the state line you can stop at the overlook.  With parking on both sides, you can first catch your breath and then have it taken away by the view for a breathtaking view of Calderwood Lake and Dam.  The road has leveled out by the time you reach Chillhowee Lake on your left (about 11 miles from the TN/NC state line). 

The Valley

With the Dragon behind you get ready for some rolling hills and easy curves through the valley towards Tellico Plains.  Stay on US 129 until you hit Hwy 72.  Veer left onto Hwy 72 and follow to US 411.  Turn left onto this four lane road for a few miles to the town of Vonore then turn left onto Hwy 360.  Follow 360 until it joins Hwy 165 just outside of Tellico Plains. Now turn left onto Hwy 165.   Just a few miles on your left is a nice stop at the river’s edge. The Cascades Riverside Grill offers casual outdoor dining (also goes by Telliquah and Bistro by the River).    

Bald River Falls

It is worth your time to take Forest Service Road 210, a right turn off 165 after passing the Riverside Grill.  Follow this paved Forest Service Road (two lanes but narrow) along Tellico River for about 6 miles to reach Bald River Falls.  You can view the falls right from the road with convenient parking found right after crossing the bridge.  After viewing over 100 ft of falling water just head back down 210 and turn right when you reach 165. 

Cherohala Skyway

Rivaling the Blue Ridge Parkway in natural beauty, the Cherohala Skyway runs over 40 scenic miles from Tellico Plains, TN towards Robbinsville, NC on TN Hwy 165, which turns into NC Hwy 143 when you cross over the state line.  Be sure to have enough gas when starting out on the Skyway, as it’s not readily available after Tellico Plains until you reach the Thunder Mountain General Store or Robbinsville, NC. 

There’s no shortage of lookouts along the Skyway so choose your favorites!  We enjoy a stop at Santeetlah Ridge, over a mile high at 5,390 feet and the highest lookout point on the Skyway.  This Skyway is a dream to ride with great curves, fantastic views, and a fraction of the traffic found at the Dragon. 

Technically the Skyway ends around the turnoff for Joyce Kilmer Memorial Forest but just keep following NC Hwy 143 for about another 10 miles around the South side of Lake Santeetlah and turn right onto 129 into Robbinsville NC.  You have conquered the beautiful yet challenging Dragon – Skyway Loop.